Oil Pump Replacement
OIL PUMP REPLACEMENT
Replacement of the oil pump on a 4th generation car will likely require 6 hours of work. Having a lift and air tools will make things much easier, but ramps and hand tools will also work fine. First, drain the oil and remove the oil filter. Unbolt the oil cooler adapter from oil filter pad (if so equipped). Unscrew the oil level sensor and driver side oxygen sensor. Unbolt and remove the starter (disconnect the battery to be safe and tape up the disconnected wires to keep them out of the way.
Next, unbolt and remove the Y-pipe and catalytic converter. You may have to spray down the bolts with rust dissolver and let it soak overnight. Remove the splash cover (manual tranny) or torque converter cover (automatic tranny). You might have some clearance problems with the oil pan on a manual tranny car.
Open the hood and disconnect air tube into throttle body. Place a piece of wood on the vibration damper on the crank snout, and put a jack under it. Jac the engine up to take the weight off the engine mounts, and unbolt the mount bolts. You may have to grind a flat spot onto the head flange on the passenger side bolt to clear the A/C lines. Don't try to force this bolt past the soft aluminum lines or you will gouge them possibly causing a leak.
Remove the oil pan bolts, and drain any additional oil that may have drained into the pan. Separate the oil pan from the block and jack the engine up as much as is needed to remove the pan past the crossmember. You may have to rotate the crank to get the front counterweights pointing up for clearance. If you have to do this, let the engine down on the mounts first, since your jack is on the crank and moving it will drop out the engine. While you're jacking up the engine, watch for any pinched or pulled hoses/wires as the radiator hoses get stretched somewhat tight. On an automatic car, this won't be as much of a problem since the tranny case doesn't extend all the way around the bottom like the manual tranny.
Once the oil pan is off, remove the three nuts holding on the windage tray. Then remove the oil pump bolt and pull out the oil pump and windage tray. Rebolt the pump on without the tray and measure from the main web to the bottom of the pickup. You need to set your new pump to this measurement. Bolt up the new pump and figured out where the pickup would have to be to match the old pump measurement. Scribe a line on the pickup and pump to match them up. Unbolt the pump, place it in a soft jaw vice, and heat up the intake tube hole with a propane torch for a few minutes.
Install the pickup tube (it will be very tight) using a piece of 3/4" pipe. Slot the pipe so it fits tightly against the pickup tube. Vice grip it to the pickup tube so it doesn't slip. Line up the pickup to the scribe line and hammer it quickly into the warmed up pump body. Reinstall the pump on the engine and re-measure the main web to pickup. You should be able to tweak the pickup by tapping it with a rubber mallet one way or another. Once the pickup is in the correct place, either put a few drops of lock-tite on the pipe/pump joint or run a weld bead around it.
Assembly is pretty much the reverse of the above. Make sure you replace the intermediate pump driveshaft when you bolt up the pump for good. Also put a few drops of lock-tite red on the oil pump bolt before torquing it to the spec of 65 lb-ft.
When assembling, it is critical that you glue up a new oil pan gasket (quite expensive at $40 from the dealer) with RTV (i,e, Permatex blue). Make sure you run a good bead around the four corners of the oil pan where the pan rail meets the front and back covers, at least 1" either way. Also put a light coating of RTV over the entire top of the gasket to glue it to the block. Make sure the front cover and back seal adapter grooves are spotless as these areas are prone to leaks. Also make sure the block is clean and oil free. You can use brake fluid on a rag (don't spray it directly onto the block) to clean the contact surface where the oil pan will sit. Make sure the gasket doesn't squish out anywhere, and ensure the front and back end seals are in place.
Button up the bottom end, bolt the engine back down, put back all the pieces you took off. Fill the oil filter with oil before putting it one and then fill the crankcase back up. Double check to make sure everything gets reconnected and start up the car to verify you have oil pressure within 1-2 seconds of startup. Remember, the oil pump needs to get primed and the filter needs to get filled up, so it will sit at 0 psi for a little time. Don't rev the motor. If it is still 0 psi after about 5 seconds and/or you start to hear knocking, shut the car off. If this happens, search for the driveshaft that you probably forgot to put back in and take it all apart again to put it in.
Replacement of the oil pump on a 4th generation car will likely require 6 hours of work. Having a lift and air tools will make things much easier, but ramps and hand tools will also work fine. First, drain the oil and remove the oil filter. Unbolt the oil cooler adapter from oil filter pad (if so equipped). Unscrew the oil level sensor and driver side oxygen sensor. Unbolt and remove the starter (disconnect the battery to be safe and tape up the disconnected wires to keep them out of the way.
Next, unbolt and remove the Y-pipe and catalytic converter. You may have to spray down the bolts with rust dissolver and let it soak overnight. Remove the splash cover (manual tranny) or torque converter cover (automatic tranny). You might have some clearance problems with the oil pan on a manual tranny car.
Open the hood and disconnect air tube into throttle body. Place a piece of wood on the vibration damper on the crank snout, and put a jack under it. Jac the engine up to take the weight off the engine mounts, and unbolt the mount bolts. You may have to grind a flat spot onto the head flange on the passenger side bolt to clear the A/C lines. Don't try to force this bolt past the soft aluminum lines or you will gouge them possibly causing a leak.
Remove the oil pan bolts, and drain any additional oil that may have drained into the pan. Separate the oil pan from the block and jack the engine up as much as is needed to remove the pan past the crossmember. You may have to rotate the crank to get the front counterweights pointing up for clearance. If you have to do this, let the engine down on the mounts first, since your jack is on the crank and moving it will drop out the engine. While you're jacking up the engine, watch for any pinched or pulled hoses/wires as the radiator hoses get stretched somewhat tight. On an automatic car, this won't be as much of a problem since the tranny case doesn't extend all the way around the bottom like the manual tranny.
Once the oil pan is off, remove the three nuts holding on the windage tray. Then remove the oil pump bolt and pull out the oil pump and windage tray. Rebolt the pump on without the tray and measure from the main web to the bottom of the pickup. You need to set your new pump to this measurement. Bolt up the new pump and figured out where the pickup would have to be to match the old pump measurement. Scribe a line on the pickup and pump to match them up. Unbolt the pump, place it in a soft jaw vice, and heat up the intake tube hole with a propane torch for a few minutes.
Install the pickup tube (it will be very tight) using a piece of 3/4" pipe. Slot the pipe so it fits tightly against the pickup tube. Vice grip it to the pickup tube so it doesn't slip. Line up the pickup to the scribe line and hammer it quickly into the warmed up pump body. Reinstall the pump on the engine and re-measure the main web to pickup. You should be able to tweak the pickup by tapping it with a rubber mallet one way or another. Once the pickup is in the correct place, either put a few drops of lock-tite on the pipe/pump joint or run a weld bead around it.
Assembly is pretty much the reverse of the above. Make sure you replace the intermediate pump driveshaft when you bolt up the pump for good. Also put a few drops of lock-tite red on the oil pump bolt before torquing it to the spec of 65 lb-ft.
When assembling, it is critical that you glue up a new oil pan gasket (quite expensive at $40 from the dealer) with RTV (i,e, Permatex blue). Make sure you run a good bead around the four corners of the oil pan where the pan rail meets the front and back covers, at least 1" either way. Also put a light coating of RTV over the entire top of the gasket to glue it to the block. Make sure the front cover and back seal adapter grooves are spotless as these areas are prone to leaks. Also make sure the block is clean and oil free. You can use brake fluid on a rag (don't spray it directly onto the block) to clean the contact surface where the oil pan will sit. Make sure the gasket doesn't squish out anywhere, and ensure the front and back end seals are in place.
Button up the bottom end, bolt the engine back down, put back all the pieces you took off. Fill the oil filter with oil before putting it one and then fill the crankcase back up. Double check to make sure everything gets reconnected and start up the car to verify you have oil pressure within 1-2 seconds of startup. Remember, the oil pump needs to get primed and the filter needs to get filled up, so it will sit at 0 psi for a little time. Don't rev the motor. If it is still 0 psi after about 5 seconds and/or you start to hear knocking, shut the car off. If this happens, search for the driveshaft that you probably forgot to put back in and take it all apart again to put it in.
posted by yoko at 6:58 PM
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