Automotive

Car battery - Maintanence Free

2007-12-21T07:09:00.000-08:00

This type of battery comes with a seal so that you couldn't pry open the cover for adding water to the electrolyte. Such batteries typically have a clearly written note saying "Do not open". These batteries due to their inherent behavior don't need an electrolyte recharge.
In the same note, maintanence accessible batteries need electrolyte recharge. NOTE: Dont use any water other than distilled water for this purpose, as tap water might have chlorine and other chemical contamination that might reduce the purity of the electrolyte and in some cases lead to reduce shelf life of the battery

Yoko

Race Car Flywheel Moment of Inertia

2007-07-20T20:30:00.000-07:00

For race cars, lower flywheel inertia is better for the following reasons.
1. Quick Acceleration - because most of the power is available for the vehicle (we dont have to spin a beefier flywheel)
2. quick decelration - due to lower rotational inertia of the flywheel during braking or turning.
3. Lower rotational parts means lower static parts too..thus a lighter powertrain and hence better gas mileage
4. Lesser horsepower requirement - Due to lower inertia rotation parts, needs lesser horsepower to accelerate.

Yoko

yatch design links

2007-07-19T20:10:00.002-07:00

Here are some very good links listed on yatch and boat designs across the world.

http://www.svensons.com/boat/
http://robroy.dyndns.info/boats/sunapee/
http://www.bruceroberts.com/
http://boatdesign.net/plans/index.htm
http://www.westlawn.edu/index.html
http://www.bateau.com/index.php
http://www.farrdesign.com/316.htm
http://ants.dif.um.es/~humberto/yacht.html
http://www.tedbrewer.com/yachtdesign.html
http://www.tomfexas.com/

Ciao
Yoko

Brake problems syptoms

2007-07-18T20:28:00.000-07:00

- The car pulling to one side during braking.
- Squeaks, grinding or other noises when the brakes are applied.
- The pedal goes farther toward the floor than normal.
- The pedal pulsates during regular (non-panic) braking.
- Evidence of brake fluid inside the tire/wheel or on the ground.

Powertrain Courses - Links

2007-07-17T20:27:00.000-07:00

Univ of Michigan:
http://arc.engin.umich.edu/arc/contact/index.html
http://me.engin.umich.edu/autolab/index.html

Ohio State Univ:
http://car.eng.ohio-state.edu/education/disted.shtml

Univ of Wisconsin:
http://mees.engr.wisc.edu/index.lasso

Wet exhaust manifolds

2007-07-17T20:22:00.000-07:00

Marine engine applications use sea water or fresh water to cool the exhasut system. Water is thrwon into the collector pipe which is then spit out off the exhaust pipe. these pipes are sometimes made of fibre reinforced plastics ( FRP) and can withstand very high temperature gradients.
This is different from usual road applications that we see.

wheel hop feeling at the wheel, when you drive ???

2007-06-28T20:48:00.000-07:00

Wheel hoping feeling at the steering wheel, as you drive at low speed. this feeling is pretty cyclic ad can be sometimes really irritating. Here are a few possibilities that might be thought of
1. Wheel bearing needs to be changed. Check if your bearing is presfit on the shaft.
2. Unevenly bent wheel rim due to something else.
3. Check the CV joint and it cover as well.

Yoko

How to check front struts of the car ?

2007-06-28T20:38:00.000-07:00

When the car is parked, try to grip and hold the car from the underside of either fenders and then try to lift the car and let go, look to see how hard or soft it is to lift and see how it springs back. Softer the lift, better your strut quality is.
This check is a must for all used cars thats up for sale.

Yoko

How to check tie-rod in a car ?

2007-06-28T20:34:00.000-07:00

When the car is idling, try to turn the wheel either ways and try to listen for some kind of ticking sound as you spin the wheel.
If you hear the tick sound, then , for sure, your tie rod needs to be replaced or has to greased and tightened.

Yoko

what are tie rods ?

2007-06-28T20:26:00.000-07:00

All vehicles, no matter what make or model have tie rod ends.On vehicles with Rack and Pinion Steering there are only two, but on others, there are four.The tie rod end attaches to the steering knuckle on each front wheel on Rack and Pinion Steering.On non-R&P steering, there is one attached to the steering knuckle on each front wheel and one attached to the long bar that controls both wheels for steering, called a Tie Rod Drag Link.This link is connected to the pitman arm coming from the steering gear-box and also connected to an idler arm for stability purposes.The little tie rod ends on non R&P screw into a sleeve with both right-handed threads and left-handed threads.
When you have the toe-in set on your vehicle, the technician can loosen two bolts and nuts and twist this sleeve¡...this makes the tires go out or in.It is very important to have these tie rod ends greased every time you have the oil and filter changed in the engine.The importance in greasing them is to keep them moving freely.If they get dry they will wear out quickly.

If they wear out, they can come apart. If they come apart, you won't be able to steer your vehicle. Not a good thing. Now, grant you, on some of the newer vehicles the manufacturers decided to leave off the grease fittings.These tie rods come pre-packed and will last a very long time.
But, you should have them 'checked ' at each oil change.Some have a threaded hole for the grease fitting, but they have a small cap over them.You can remove the cap and add a fitting so you can grease it.Any time you replace a tie rod end, be sure to grease it, and the others if you can.

How to improve your vehicles gas mileage

2007-03-12T16:48:00.000-07:00

1: Check your tire pressure. If it is too low, add air to bring tires to their recommended pressure.
2: Check your air filter. If it is dirty or old, replace it.
3: Run your car's air conditioner less.
4: Drive calmly. Avoid unnecessary acceleration and braking.
5: Tune up your car if these steps do not improve your mileage.
6: Ask a mechanic to check the gap on your spark plugs. Adjust or replace as necessary.
7: Ask a mechanic to look for fouled fuel injectors. Replace them as necessary.
8: Replace spark plug wires.
9: Fill unadultered gas from a decent/same gas station as much as possible.
Tips & Warnings
Sport utility vehicles naturally have poor fuel efficiency, mainly due to their large size.
If you cannot improve your car's gas mileage, seek ways to lower fuel consumption. When possible, walk, ride a bicycle, or form a carpool.
Depending on your car's make and model, driving with the windows rolled down instead of running the air conditioning may cause increased drag, and therefore be less efficient than running the air conditioning with the windows up.
If your gas mileage suddenly plummets, see a mechanic. Your car may have a serious problem.

Powertrain related symptoms

2007-03-03T21:51:00.000-08:00

Engine
The following symptoms indicate engine trouble. Get a diagnosis and schedule the repair.
1. Difficulty starting the engine.
2. The "check engine" light on the instrument panel is lit.
3. Rough idling or stalling.
4. Poor acceleration.
5. Poor fuel economy.
6. Excessive oil use (more than one quart between changes).
7. Engine continues running after the key is removed.

Transmission
Poor transmission performance may come from actual component failure or a simple disconnected hose or plugged filter. Make sure the technician checks the simple items first; transmission repairs normally are expensive. Some of the most common symptoms of transmission problems are:
1. Abrupt or hard shifts between gears.
2. Delayed or no response when shifting from neutral to drive or reverse.
3. Failure to shift during normal acceleration.
4. Slippage during acceleration. The engine speeds up, but the vehicle does not respond.
5. TCM failure and TCC solenoid error codes.
6. Trans Oil leak. ( remember trans oil is very corrosive and can kill the seals).

Brakes related symptoms

2007-03-03T21:49:00.000-08:00

Brake problems have several symptoms. Schedule diagnosis and repair if:
1. The vehicle pulls to one side when the brakes are applied.
2. The brake pedal sinks to the floor when pressure is maintained.
3. You hear or feel scraping or grinding during braking.
4. The "brake" light on the instrument panel is lit.
5. ABS and ESC failure code also set in the ABS light on the dash

Ride and Handling related symptoms

2007-03-03T21:47:00.000-08:00

1. Worn shock absorbers or other suspension components - or improper tire inflation - can contribute to poor cornering.
2. While there is no hard and fast rule about when to replace shock absorbers or struts, try this test: bounce the vehicle up and down hard at each wheel and then let go. See how many times the vehicle bounces. Weak shocks will allow the vehicle to bounce twice or more.
3. Springs do not normally wear out and do not need replacement unless one corner of the vehicle is lower than the others. Overloading your vehicle can damage the springs.
4. Balance tires properly. An unbalanced or improperly balanced tire causes a vehicle to vibrate and may wear steering and suspension components prematurely.

Steering related symptoms

2007-03-03T21:46:00.000-08:00

1. Misaligned front wheels and/or worn steering components, such as the idler or ball joint, can cause wandering or difficulty steering in a straight line.
2. Pulling - the vehicle's tendency to steer to the left or right - can be caused by something as routine as under-inflated tires, or as serious as a damaged or misaligned front end.

Yoko

Loud noise when you go over a bump.

2007-03-03T21:36:00.000-08:00

Possible ares to watch out.
1. suspension system (particularly look for bolts)
sometimes the radius arm or LCA might miss it bolt or may be worn out. Its a good idea to check the
2. Check for exhaust system hanger mounts and its fasteners.
3. Check driveline components ( need a hoist for this)
Yoko

Powertrain Mounts and Exhaust system

2007-03-03T21:33:00.000-08:00

Shifting and abrupt throttle inputs cause the powertrain to move on its mounts. The exhaust system is attached to the engine and is hung by its own mounts from the body. The powertrain movement causes the exhaust system to sway on its mounts and contact the powertrain or body. With the vehicle on a hoist, the exhaust system can be pushed in each direction to see if there is a contact. Also look for signs of contact such as gouges in the metal or paint. The powertrain can also be moved on its mounts using a long lever arm such as a wood 2x4 to pry on various parts of the powertrain using the body as a fulcrum, again listen and watching for contacts. If greater than normal vibration is noticed at idle, the powertrain mounts may be failed causing the powertrain to move more than normal and to be out of design position to begin with.

Coolant leaking into your cylinder ???

2007-03-03T21:26:00.000-08:00

Well, here is how to figure out if you have a head gasket faliure or even a cracked head.
1. A small amount of white smoke in the exhaust.
2. Coolant coming out of the tailpipe.
3. Your oil looks like a milkshake.

if any of these apply to your car you should talk to a specialist to avoid ruining the engine.

Yoko

Overheated engine

2007-03-03T21:18:00.000-08:00

List of things to check for.
1. Replace wiring, fan switch, alternator, battery, starter, gasket,
2. Check electrical or (CTS), coolant temprature sensor relaying wrong messages to the ECM
3. Faulty thermostat. should manifest as "check engine" light on yur dash.
In the long run could lead to enigne damage.
4. Some coolant systems require bleeding the air out of coolant system. Sensor might read the hot superheated trapped air rather than the coolant. More of a false alarm on "check engine" light.

Yoko

Does your car stall when hot and hesitates ??

2007-03-03T19:31:00.000-08:00

Well, here are the few reasons why it might do this.
1. Faulty fuel pump or leaking fuel line.
2. Clogged injectors and wiring between ECM and injector.
3. Plugs and Crankshaft position sensors (CPS) and its wiring with ECM.
4. Skipped timing belt. (check base ignition timig and valve timing setting on ECM)
5. Sometimes, even the Torq convrtr control solenoid.
6. Overheated ignition module

Yoko

What does oil stain tell you ??

2007-03-03T19:28:00.000-08:00

An occasional stain or drop of fluid under your vehicle may not be cause for concern. However, if you consistently find the ground wet, or ever find a "puddle," check it out immediately.
Here's what to look for in some of the most common leaks.
1. Bright colors including green, pastel blue, and orange usually indicate an overheated engine or an antifreeze leak caused by a bad hose, water pump, or leaking radiator.
2. Red spots indicates that you are losing either transmission or power steering fluid.
3. Dark brown or black spots let you know that the engine is leaking oil. This could be caused by something as simple as a bad seal or gasket.
4. A clear puddle of water is usually not a problem. Quite frequently it is the normal condensation from running your vehicle's airconditioner.
Once you've diagnosed the leak, you have a couple of options. I usually recommend trying out a simple "stop leak" product. These run around $5-10/can and for that price you don't have much to lose. If the "stop leak" doesn't shore up your problem, your options become fairly limited. If you have a radiator fluid leak, you may be able to find the source of the leak and fix it yourself. Oil, transmission fluid, and power steering leaks, usually take a few more tools than the average person has on hand.

Why Replace Your Timing Chain?

2006-11-07T16:23:00.000-08:00

Telltale signs of worn out timing chains are:
Rough idle.
Sluggish performance and poor economy.
Sudden engine performance change including the inability to start the engine.
Intermittent backfire through the intake manifold.
Inconsistent ignition timing or a clattering noise coming from the front of the engine.

If you see any or all of the above, then probably, you need to read the rest of the blog as well....

Over time, wear on internal working parts of your engine will spell the need for replacement. One of the internal working parts that wear is the timing chain and timing sprockets. The timing chain and sprockets are the connecting line between the crankshaft and the camshaft. As the crankshaft turns, via the timing chain, it drives the camshaft that operates the engine's valves via the lifters, push rods and rocker arm assemblies The timing of the valves opening and closing at precise intervals is crucial for proper engine operation. As the timing chain and sprockets wear, this precise timing of the valves gradually changes, eventually to a point where replacement is necessary.

Why Replace Your Timing Belt?

2006-11-07T16:19:00.000-08:00

The purpose of a timing belt is to provide a quiet, flexible connection between the camshaft and crankshaft to keep the valves opening and closing in phase with the movement of the pistons.
NOTE: Timing belts are used in two types of engines designated "interference" and "non-interference". If the timing belt breaks on a non-interference design, there is enough clearance between the pistons and valves to prevent damaging contact. An interference design does not have sufficient clearance between those parts and engine damage would result from a broken timing belt. Generally, I recommend replacement at 60,000-mile intervals. Breakage is not the only reason to replace your timing belt. Looseness and wear will allow the timing belt to slip and change valve timing resulting in very poor performance, a no-start condition, or engine damage.

Die Casting - Magnesium die cast

2006-04-25T17:53:00.000-07:00

Today I got was in class where Meridian Technologies, Premier Mag die casting company in North america was having their BDM( bizz development Manager) as the chief speaker.
Here is what he got to say..
Mag has two major grade called AZ ( high strength ) and AM ( high ductility) alloy. China has lots of magnesite ore and price lock up for long term customers option was available. Magnesium rates are expected to stay pretty much the same ( around $1.10/lb) while Al is expected to grow above the present market rates.

Al absorbs Hydrogen , which causes porosity in the molten state, so the newer techniques involve degassing molten Al before pouring them into the cavity.

Mag market grows by 10% every year for the next 5 years. Mag products are good EMI shielder.
There were case studies in Body & door panels made of Magnisium like Engine Cradle ( GM Corvette), Rear Lift gate

More in next blog......

Yoko

List of Chrysler platforms

2006-01-02T16:52:00.000-08:00

Automotive

List of Chrysler platforms

1960s

Chrysler D platform (1957-1973) - The large RWD Imperial (Chrysler reused the D name for the Talon/Laser)
Chrysler A platform (1960-1977) - Small (for the time) RWD cars like the Plymouth Valiant and Dodge Dart
B/R platform
- Chrysler B platform (1962-1979) - Large RWD cars like the Plymouth Road Runner and Chrysler Cordoba
- Chrysler R platform (1979-1981) - St. Regis, Gran Fury, Newport, New Yorker
Chrysler C platform (1965-1977) - Large RWD cars like the Chrysler 300 and Plymouth Fury

1970s

Chrysler E platform (1970-1974) - Sporty RWD cars (the Plymouth Barracuda/Dodge Challenger)
F/M/J platforms
- Chrysler F platform (1976-1980) - Small RWD cars (Dodge Aspen/Plymouth Volare)
- Chrysler M platform (1977-1989) - Large RWD cars like the Dodge Diplomat and Chrysler New Yorker
- Chrysler J platform (1980-1983) - The large Chrysler Cordoba/Chrysler Imperial/Dodge Mirada

1980s

Chrysler L platform (1978-1990) - Small FWD cars like the Dodge Omni
Chrysler K platform (1981-1995) - Small and large FWD cars
- K - Aries/Reliant
- EEK - Chrysler New Yorker
- AG - Dodge Daytona
- H - Dodge Lancer
- AP - Shadow/Sundance
- J - Chrysler LeBaron coupe and convertible
- AA - Chrysler LeBaron sedan, Spirit/Acclaim
- Q - TC by Maserati
- Y - Chrysler New Yorker
Chrysler XJ platform (1984-2001) - Jeep Cherokee, 1984-1990 Jeep Wagoneer
Chrysler S platform (1984-present) - FWD minivans
- AS - Second-generation
- NS - Third generation
- RS - Fourth-generation
Chrysler YJ platform (1987-1996) - Jeep Wrangler

1990s

Chrysler SR platform (1992-present) - Dodge Viper
Chrysler ZJ platform (1993-1998) - Jeep Grand Cherokee, Jeep Grand Wagoneer
Chrysler LH platform (1993-2004) - Large FWD cars like the Dodge Intrepid
Chrysler PL platform (1994-present) - The small FWD Dodge Neon
Chrysler JA platform (1995-present) - Mid-size FWD cars like the Dodge Stratus
- JA - 1995-2000 Dodge Stratus/Chrysler Cirrus/Plymouth Breeze
- JR - 2001-present Dodge Stratus/Chrysler Sebring sedan
- JX - Chrysler Sebring convertible
Chrysler PR platform (1997-2001) - The RWD Plymouth Prowler sports car
Chrysler TJ platform (1997-present) - Jeep Wrangler
Chrysler WJ platform (1999-present) - Jeep Grand Cherokee

2000s

Chrysler PL platform (1994-present) - The small FWD Dodge Neon
Chrysler PT platform (2002-present) - The Chrysler PT Cruiser
Chrysler LX platform (2005-present) - Large RWD cars like the Chrysler 300C and Dodge Magnum
Chrysler SJ platform - Jeep Grand Wagoneer

Non-Chrysler

Mitsubishi-derived
- Chrysler D platform -- Talon, (Plymouth) Laser
- Chrysler PJ platform -- Talon
- 1995-2000 Chrysler FJ platform -- Chrysler Sebring/Dodge Avenger

GM Premium V engine

2006-01-02T16:32:00.000-08:00

Automotive

GM Premium V engine

The Premium V family of automobile engines is General Motors' modern 90° v engine architecture. The family is most associated with Cadillac's Northstar V8, but the family has also seen use at Oldsmobile (as the Aurora L47 V8 and "Shortstar" LX5). Recently, Premium V engines have been used at Pontiac and will soon be used by Buick (in the Lucerne) and Alfa Romeo (in the US-market Kamal).

Northstar

The engine was introduced in 1992 in the Cadillac Allante and continues to be used in the Cadillac STS, Cadillac SRX, and Cadillac XLR. It was sold exclusively by Cadillac for over a decade before being introduced in the Pontiac Bonneville for 2004, though the L47 V8 variant was used in the Oldsmobile Aurora and the 3500 LX5 V6 in the Oldsmobile Intrigue. Cadillac is planning to introduce a V12 Northstar this decade.

The original Northstar Allante also introduced the Northstar System which included traction control, adaptive suspension, and antilock brakes.

The all-aluminum Northstar features Dual-Overhead Cams, Variable Valve Timing, and other modern technologies. The VVT system can vary intake by up to 40° and the exhaust by up to 50°. Most Northstar engines produce 275 to 315 hp (205 to 235 kW). The engine displaces 279 in³ (4645 cc) from a 3.66 in (93 mm) bore and 3.31 in (84 mm) stroke. The engine got a forged steel crankshaft in 2003. The block can be expanded up to 5.4 L though no such engine has been produced.

The Northstar block's bellhousing bolt pattern is substantially similar that found on the GM/Isuzu 60-degree V6 engine family [1] (http://myweb.cableone.net/bcanderson/trooper/AuroraSwap.html). One bolt hole location is different, and the starter is located in the valley between cylinder banks rather than on the side of the block. This fact raises interesting possibilities for using this engine family for purposes other than originally intended; if one can find a transmission with a version that bolts to the GM 60-degree family, one can more easily transplant the Northstar engines into other FWD or RWD vehicles. Some possibilities are: GM 700R4; Aisin-Warner transmissions whose bellhousing-to-transmission pattern is shared with the Jeep AX-5, AX-15, and NV3550 transmissions (various Toyota G, R, W, and Isuzu AR models).

The Northstar was on the Ward's 10 Best Engines list for 1995 and 1996.

L37

The L37 was the original Northstar. It is tuned for responsiveness and power, while the later LD8 is designed for more sedate use. The L37 topped out at 300 hp (224 kW) in 2002 on the STS and ETC models, making these the most powerful front wheel drive cars ever built.

Vehicles using the L37 include:

LD8

The LD8 is a transverse V8 for front wheel drive cars. Introduced in 1994, it is designed to provide more torque than the high-revving L37. The 1998 revision is quieter (thanks to hydraulic engine mounts) and performs better (thanks to a tuned intake system) than previous Northstars. It produces 275 hp and 300 ft.lbf.

Vehicles using the LD8 include:

LH2

The Northstar was designed originally for transverse front wheel drive applications. It was modified substantially in 2004 for longitudinal rear- and all wheel drive use in the SRX and XLR. The RWD (LH2) Northstar is good for 315hp (235kW) and 310ft.lb (420Nm).

Vehicles using the LH2 include:

Supercharged

A 4.4 L supercharged Northstar is used in the 2005 Cadillac STS-V. The bore was reduced for increased strength. Variable valve timing is used on both the intake and exhaust sides.

Applications:

2005 Cadillac STS-V

L47

The L47 Aurora engine was a special V8 designed for the Oldsmobile Aurora, based on the Northstar engine. It is a DOHC 4.0 L (3995 cc) V8 which produced 250 horsepower (186 kW) and 260 ft.lbf (353 Nm) of torque. The bore is 87 mm and the stroke is 84 mm.

A special version of this engine was used as one of the two engines available to Indy Racing League competitors at the inception of that automobile racing promotion (the other engine was a modified Infiniti V8).

The Aurora engine was introduced in 1994 for the 1995 model year, and General Motors has not used this engine since the demise of the marque in 2004.

LX5

The 3500 LX5 V6 is a DOHC engine from Oldsmobile, introduced in 1999 with the Oldsmobile Intrigue. It was produced by the Premium engine group at GM and was thus called the Premium V6, or PV6, while it was being developed. It is based on the L47 Aurora V8, which is itself based on the Northstar engine, so engineers called it the Short North, though Oldsmobile fans have taken to calling it the Shortstar.

It is not a simple cut-down V8. Although it has a 90° vee-angle like the Northstar and Aurora, the engine block was engineered from scratch, so bore centers are different. It has chain-driven dual overhead cams and 4 valves per cylinder, but is an even-firing design with a split-pin crankshaft similar to the modern GM 3800 engines. The LX5 displaced 3.5 L (3473 cc) and produced 215 hp (160 kW) and 230 ft.lbf (312 Nm). Bore is 89.5 mm and stroke is 92 mm.

The cost of building this engine was high, and it was not used in many vehicles. It was said at the time that a family of premium V6s would follow, with displacements ranging from 3.3 L to 3.7 L, but only the LX5 was ever produced. It was entirely different from any other V6 in the GM inventory, and as with the Aurora V8, production stopped with the demise of Oldsmobile.

This engine was used in the following:

1999 Oldsmobile Intrigue
2001-2002 Oldsmobile Aurora

The 3500 LX5 was on the Ward's 10 Best Engines list for 1999 and 2000.

Chrysler 300 C Sedan - a review

2005-12-24T19:25:00.000-08:00

CHRYSLER 300C SEDAN

The Chrysler 300C is a blend of the past and the present, of style and substance. It is truly a landmark vehicle for the American automotive industry. Not only has Chrysler brought back the legendary HEMI engine, it has also reinstated rear-wheel drive architecture in its new concept car, the Chrysler 300C. The Chrysler 300 series got its name from the engine horsepower output. As Chrysler celebrates the 50th anniversary of the legendary Chrysler 'letter series', the Chrysler 300 sports a particularly striking design, with a long, classic hood and a prominent grille. The interior of the Chrysler 300C has a handcrafted feel, which complements the equally dynamic exterior. With added extras, such as tortoiseshell accents on the steering wheel rim, gear stick and door pulls, reflect a feeling of opulence.

ENGINE

Tucked under the long, masculine hood of the Chrysler 300C is a 5.7-litre, HEMI�, V8 engine that produces 340hp at 5,000rpm and 390lb/ft torque at 4,000rpm. The car can go from 0-60 in 6.3sec. The new HEMI engine has been engineered to deliver outstanding performance, high fuel economy and minimal noise. The engine uses two sets of four cylinders, each in a V configuration. This engine incorporates multi-displacement system technology, meaning it can turn off the fuel consumption in one set of cylinders. This provides a 20% increase in fuel efficiency. The engine uses an electronically controlled, five-speed automatic transmission, with autostick for manually-selected gear changes.

The HEMI was named after its hemispherical combustion chambers. The first HEMI engine was produced 50 years ago for the now-revered Chrysler 'letter series' cars. The V8 engine used for the Chrysler 300C is smaller, lighter and uses technologies such as electronic throttle control and MDS to give an outstanding performance with improved fuel economy. The HEMI demonstrates incredible fuel economy, with consumption averaging 17mpg / 25mpg in city / motorway driving conditions respectively.

COMFORT

The well-equipped interior gives the 300C an opulent look. Tortoiseshell accents are used on the steering-wheel rim, gear stick and interior door handles for the first time. The two-tone colour scheme gives the interiors a spacious feeling. The 300C is equipped with a tilt-telescoping steering wheel, which adjusts for both tilt and reach. With a new DVD-based navigation system that features a colour display, AM/FM stereo, MP3 player, six-disc CD system and a navigation system, the travelling experience is both informative and entertaining. The seats are adorned with soft leather and the rear seats fold down for further luggage space.

MARKET RATIONALE

The Chrysler 300C model marks the return of the legendary HEMI engine. The 5.7-litre, HEMI V8 engine has been re-engineered to create a fuel-efficient powerhouse. This power is transferred to the road via a rear-drive architecture, complemented by 18in tyres and a fully independent suspension system. Even snow-belt customers can drive safely, using the all-speed traction control and electronic stability programme. The exterior styling of the 300C is domineering and the interior is both luxurious and comfortable. An exciting blend of style, performance, comfort and fuel economy makes the Chrysler 300C a landmark vehicle in the American automotive industry.

Oil Pump Replacement

2005-12-24T18:58:00.000-08:00

OIL PUMP REPLACEMENT

Replacement of the oil pump on a 4th generation car will likely require 6 hours of work. Having a lift and air tools will make things much easier, but ramps and hand tools will also work fine. First, drain the oil and remove the oil filter. Unbolt the oil cooler adapter from oil filter pad (if so equipped). Unscrew the oil level sensor and driver side oxygen sensor. Unbolt and remove the starter (disconnect the battery to be safe and tape up the disconnected wires to keep them out of the way.

Next, unbolt and remove the Y-pipe and catalytic converter. You may have to spray down the bolts with rust dissolver and let it soak overnight. Remove the splash cover (manual tranny) or torque converter cover (automatic tranny). You might have some clearance problems with the oil pan on a manual tranny car.

Open the hood and disconnect air tube into throttle body. Place a piece of wood on the vibration damper on the crank snout, and put a jack under it. Jac the engine up to take the weight off the engine mounts, and unbolt the mount bolts. You may have to grind a flat spot onto the head flange on the passenger side bolt to clear the A/C lines. Don't try to force this bolt past the soft aluminum lines or you will gouge them possibly causing a leak.

Remove the oil pan bolts, and drain any additional oil that may have drained into the pan. Separate the oil pan from the block and jack the engine up as much as is needed to remove the pan past the crossmember. You may have to rotate the crank to get the front counterweights pointing up for clearance. If you have to do this, let the engine down on the mounts first, since your jack is on the crank and moving it will drop out the engine. While you're jacking up the engine, watch for any pinched or pulled hoses/wires as the radiator hoses get stretched somewhat tight. On an automatic car, this won't be as much of a problem since the tranny case doesn't extend all the way around the bottom like the manual tranny.

Once the oil pan is off, remove the three nuts holding on the windage tray. Then remove the oil pump bolt and pull out the oil pump and windage tray. Rebolt the pump on without the tray and measure from the main web to the bottom of the pickup. You need to set your new pump to this measurement. Bolt up the new pump and figured out where the pickup would have to be to match the old pump measurement. Scribe a line on the pickup and pump to match them up. Unbolt the pump, place it in a soft jaw vice, and heat up the intake tube hole with a propane torch for a few minutes.

Install the pickup tube (it will be very tight) using a piece of 3/4" pipe. Slot the pipe so it fits tightly against the pickup tube. Vice grip it to the pickup tube so it doesn't slip. Line up the pickup to the scribe line and hammer it quickly into the warmed up pump body. Reinstall the pump on the engine and re-measure the main web to pickup. You should be able to tweak the pickup by tapping it with a rubber mallet one way or another. Once the pickup is in the correct place, either put a few drops of lock-tite on the pipe/pump joint or run a weld bead around it.

Assembly is pretty much the reverse of the above. Make sure you replace the intermediate pump driveshaft when you bolt up the pump for good. Also put a few drops of lock-tite red on the oil pump bolt before torquing it to the spec of 65 lb-ft.

When assembling, it is critical that you glue up a new oil pan gasket (quite expensive at $40 from the dealer) with RTV (i,e, Permatex blue). Make sure you run a good bead around the four corners of the oil pan where the pan rail meets the front and back covers, at least 1" either way. Also put a light coating of RTV over the entire top of the gasket to glue it to the block. Make sure the front cover and back seal adapter grooves are spotless as these areas are prone to leaks. Also make sure the block is clean and oil free. You can use brake fluid on a rag (don't spray it directly onto the block) to clean the contact surface where the oil pan will sit. Make sure the gasket doesn't squish out anywhere, and ensure the front and back end seals are in place.

Button up the bottom end, bolt the engine back down, put back all the pieces you took off. Fill the oil filter with oil before putting it one and then fill the crankcase back up. Double check to make sure everything gets reconnected and start up the car to verify you have oil pressure within 1-2 seconds of startup. Remember, the oil pump needs to get primed and the filter needs to get filled up, so it will sit at 0 psi for a little time. Don't rev the motor. If it is still 0 psi after about 5 seconds and/or you start to hear knocking, shut the car off. If this happens, search for the driveshaft that you probably forgot to put back in and take it all apart again to put it in.

what is RTV in automotive science

2005-12-24T18:52:00.000-08:00

Room Temperature Vulcanization
Rubber such as tires needs to be vulcanized with heat. RTV is catalized, but doesn't require heat. It doesn't stick to anything but other Silicone. It doesn't required a barrier coat or mold release. That's why it is so popular for mold making. Silicone caulk requires a release agent.
It allows the material to withstand heat and increases some of it's other properties. The only thing that I would add is that RTV is a process - not a product. Although most commonly associated with silicone molding materials, there are also RTV urethanes etc. Other types of vulcanization are the boiling process to vulcanize latex and using high pressure for certain silicones and urethanes. When molds are made of pewter miniatures for example - RTV silicone is not used, rather they put it all into a high pressure apparatus and vulcanize that way.

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2005-12-18T17:08:00.000-08:00

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